Climbing Hatun Machay
The trip to Peru began as a trip between Lima, Cusco and Arequipa. It was a large group all with our own goals but as a climber I knew somewhere along this trip there was going to be some climbing. It wasn't long before I stumbled upon Hatun Machay’s page on theCrag. Described as ‘one of the highest crags in the world at 4,290 meters,’ I knew instantly that was where I wanted to climb.
Arriving from Canada to Lima’s warmth and the sea was refreshing. Lima sits between the ocean and the Andes creating a unique tropical desert climate where there is more mist than rain. We rested in Miraflores before setting off to our next destination. We took the local equivalent of an Uber to the station before riding overnight to Huaraz. We set off leaving the warmth of the coast for the Andean highlands, which included an elevation change of 3,000m.
Huaraz is a city of approximately 120,000 with a rich history of alpinism. We frequented a fantastic coffee shop in town called Cafe Andino that was perched atop a building overlooking the surrounding town and observing Cordillera Blanca Mountains or ‘white mountain range’. In town was a square with the statue of an ice climber climbing Nevado Mateo, a nearby glacier peak. At another square the only open climbing store carried the last guidebook to the area- a lucky find we gladly purchased. Every breath became a conscious effort as the altitude begun sinking its teeth in. Fortunately we were prepared with altitude medication and copious quantities of coca tea.
After acclimating in town for some days the shuttle to Hatun Machay was booked. We prepared our climbing gear all flown in a shared bag and set off at the crack of dawn. The trip was to include another 1,000m elevation change. The alpine forests and agricultural valleys of Huaraz soon transformed into mountain planes and rock forests of the Cordillera Negra Mountains or ‘Black Mountain Range’. The rugged landscape was broken up by the occasional grazing of sheep, wind-worn wooden fences and rural homesteads of the Andean ranchers constructed using traditional methods and sometimes enforced with modern materials.
Eventually we arrived at the start of the road to the site. What were windy and bumpy roads turned into tight upward serpentine patterns that worked their way up and into the heart of the Cordillera Negra. The area gets its name from the rocks that becomes exposed from the constant wind eroding the dirt away leaving monolithic column-like structures of volcanic rock.
At last, we arrive. The site encompassed one travelers lodge and the private dwellings of the caretaker of the site. The driver introduced us to the site caretaker, a gracious lady dressed in traditional attire who then pointed us to a space in the travelers lodge for us to prepare for the hike towards the crag itself. The driver was to stay for the duration of our stay as the trip was too long to return and come back. He spent his time assisting the local caretaker of the site with maintenance.
The resident dog introduced itself alongside some sheep which were quickly incorporated into the group. Once prepared, we gave our driver the signal and set off. While the sheep were content on staying behind to continue grazing, the resident dog had other plans. She joined us as our self-appointed guide, so we named her Cheddar.
At approximately 4,290m, factoring in the climbing gear, the boots and the marsh from the constant mist of the clouds soaked grass, it made what would have been a 30 minute approach into an hour hike, but we were finally here.
Walking through Hatun Machay is a surreal experience. Somehow at this altitude there are remnants of human life. Something about being able to touch 4000 year old petroglyphs gives breath to the sheer remoteness of the location and the resilience of people. Cheddar stuck alongside us the whole way with the occasional departure to inspect the nearby cattle. The landscape was extraordinary, with the monolithic columns of the rock forest contrasting the alpine fields it sat in which themselves were surrounded by mountains draped in rolling clouds.
Once at the climbs we soon met the reality of our remote location. The clouds in the distance began accumulating in our direction. So we rushed to complete our goal as we were told that the mist could get pretty bad. The routes geology was fascinating; with the walls featuring everything from delicate honeycomb lattices to cavernous pockets.
The clouds arrived and they took only a minute or two to swallow everything up. Already being on the wall, the only thing that could be done was finish the job. So the climbs were finished and cleaned in the cloud. We gathered our stuff in a nearby boulder’s rock shelter and set off into the mist with Cheddar guiding us the whole way back.
Interested in climbing in Hatun Machay?
Acclimate.
Clouds are wet, bring dry rope
Bring extra supplies, we bought eggs and Inka Cola at the lodge to supplement our supplies, not much else is available.
The climate runs on a schedule in this area, ask the driver what time they believe the clouds roll over or when it will rain. Our driver was accurate to the hour.
Bring good boots, there’s lots of cow pies.
